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	<title>Comments for Mr PGC&#039;s Blog</title>
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		<title>Comment on Sickly Pines by mrpgc</title>
		<link>http://blog.plantsgalore.com/?p=467#comment-323689</link>
		<dc:creator>mrpgc</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Oct 2014 20:39:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.plantsgalore.com/?p=467#comment-323689</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Cindy,

When I was working with homeowners over the decades, one of the most difficult things to figure out was why two trees out of a group of eight would die after transplant while the other six looked just fine. It would be highly unusual for 5 year old pines to die of disease or insect problems. Usually within the first several years after transplanting, trees that die have not been able to re-establish their root systems at the new site. The most common cause for this is under-watering...however, over-watering can also be the problem.

The roots of plants need to have oxygen around them in order to grow and thrive. When there is poor drainage (common in clay soil) or over-application of water, the roots are totally surrounded by water and the oxygen is lacking. This will cause two things. First, the roots will just not expand and move out into the soil adjacent to the planting hole. Second, root rot fungi may get started and kill roots. 

If roots are inhibited from growing or lost due to rot, the top part of the plant must suffer. Plants must have a balance between the amount of roots and the amount of foliage. So, if the roots are killed or don&#039;t grow, the foliage must also pull back proportionally because there will not be enough water to support needles or leaves. Twigs will die, needles will turn brown from top to bottom and there will be an overall unhealthy look to the plant. In extreme cases, the whole plant will die.

Although over watering can cause this problem, sometimes the condition of the tree&#039;s root system at the time of transplant may be the cause. Circling roots, damaged root systems and miss-handling of the root ball at the time of planting can set a tree back and some of them will never recover from it. Including large amounts of granular fertilizer or fresh manures in the transplant hole can cause the roots to &quot;burn&quot; (rapid dehydration as the water moves out of the roots and into the salts in the fertilizer or manure).

Hope this gives you some ideas about what may have caused your problem. Unfortunately, figuring out what to do about it is more difficult. If you think you may be over-watering, dig a small hole about the depth of the root ball of the trees and fill it with water. It should drain away over night if your drainage is good. If it doesn&#039;t, you may need to adjust your irrigation system to provide smaller amounts of water so that any excess drains away in between watering.

Good luck,
Mr PGC]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Cindy,</p>
<p>When I was working with homeowners over the decades, one of the most difficult things to figure out was why two trees out of a group of eight would die after transplant while the other six looked just fine. It would be highly unusual for 5 year old pines to die of disease or insect problems. Usually within the first several years after transplanting, trees that die have not been able to re-establish their root systems at the new site. The most common cause for this is under-watering&#8230;however, over-watering can also be the problem.</p>
<p>The roots of plants need to have oxygen around them in order to grow and thrive. When there is poor drainage (common in clay soil) or over-application of water, the roots are totally surrounded by water and the oxygen is lacking. This will cause two things. First, the roots will just not expand and move out into the soil adjacent to the planting hole. Second, root rot fungi may get started and kill roots. </p>
<p>If roots are inhibited from growing or lost due to rot, the top part of the plant must suffer. Plants must have a balance between the amount of roots and the amount of foliage. So, if the roots are killed or don&#8217;t grow, the foliage must also pull back proportionally because there will not be enough water to support needles or leaves. Twigs will die, needles will turn brown from top to bottom and there will be an overall unhealthy look to the plant. In extreme cases, the whole plant will die.</p>
<p>Although over watering can cause this problem, sometimes the condition of the tree&#8217;s root system at the time of transplant may be the cause. Circling roots, damaged root systems and miss-handling of the root ball at the time of planting can set a tree back and some of them will never recover from it. Including large amounts of granular fertilizer or fresh manures in the transplant hole can cause the roots to &#8220;burn&#8221; (rapid dehydration as the water moves out of the roots and into the salts in the fertilizer or manure).</p>
<p>Hope this gives you some ideas about what may have caused your problem. Unfortunately, figuring out what to do about it is more difficult. If you think you may be over-watering, dig a small hole about the depth of the root ball of the trees and fill it with water. It should drain away over night if your drainage is good. If it doesn&#8217;t, you may need to adjust your irrigation system to provide smaller amounts of water so that any excess drains away in between watering.</p>
<p>Good luck,<br />
Mr PGC</p>
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		<title>Comment on Spring Flowering Bulbs by Johna593</title>
		<link>http://blog.plantsgalore.com/?p=52#comment-322217</link>
		<dc:creator>Johna593</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Oct 2014 23:05:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.plantsgalore.com/?p=52#comment-322217</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I like what you guys are up too. Such smart work and reporting! Carry on the excellent works guys Ive incorporated you guys to my blogroll. I think it&#039;ll improve the value of my website  aegegckebdfd]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I like what you guys are up too. Such smart work and reporting! Carry on the excellent works guys Ive incorporated you guys to my blogroll. I think it&#8217;ll improve the value of my website  aegegckebdfd</p>
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		<title>Comment on Sickly Pines by Cindy</title>
		<link>http://blog.plantsgalore.com/?p=467#comment-317917</link>
		<dc:creator>Cindy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 27 Sep 2014 15:59:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.plantsgalore.com/?p=467#comment-317917</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[We have 5 yr old Austrian pines dying.  Seems to be sudden.  We live in eastern Colorado.  They are on a drip system.  The one that just died is very loose and seems to have a short root system?  Any ideas for what could cause this?  What would be a sign of overwatering?]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We have 5 yr old Austrian pines dying.  Seems to be sudden.  We live in eastern Colorado.  They are on a drip system.  The one that just died is very loose and seems to have a short root system?  Any ideas for what could cause this?  What would be a sign of overwatering?</p>
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		<title>Comment on Deer, Deer by mrpgc</title>
		<link>http://blog.plantsgalore.com/?p=70#comment-314177</link>
		<dc:creator>mrpgc</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Sep 2014 22:43:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.plantsgalore.com/?p=70#comment-314177</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Eric,

Sorry for the extreme delay in responding to your question. I had to suspend work on the blog for a while to attend to some personal demands.

Anyway, repellants are about the only real option for most hosta gardens. In working with gardeners for several decades, I have heard people swear by and swear at every type of repellant both commercial or home-made. In the end, they all work as long as they are kept on the leaf consistently throughout the growing season. The real problem is that most gardeners are busy doing other things and they let the repellants wear off in the rain. It can be tough keeping it on all the time especially if you have heavy deer populations that will eat the hostas the night that it has worn off enough.

In my garden, I am able to prevent most damage with routine sprays. However, if new flower buds form after the last time I sprayed the plants, I find that the deer will eat them but not eat the leaves that have repellent on them. 

So, regardless of what you use the key is that it must be on the leaf surface when the deer bends over to take a whiff.

Ralph aka Mr PGC]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Eric,</p>
<p>Sorry for the extreme delay in responding to your question. I had to suspend work on the blog for a while to attend to some personal demands.</p>
<p>Anyway, repellants are about the only real option for most hosta gardens. In working with gardeners for several decades, I have heard people swear by and swear at every type of repellant both commercial or home-made. In the end, they all work as long as they are kept on the leaf consistently throughout the growing season. The real problem is that most gardeners are busy doing other things and they let the repellants wear off in the rain. It can be tough keeping it on all the time especially if you have heavy deer populations that will eat the hostas the night that it has worn off enough.</p>
<p>In my garden, I am able to prevent most damage with routine sprays. However, if new flower buds form after the last time I sprayed the plants, I find that the deer will eat them but not eat the leaves that have repellent on them. </p>
<p>So, regardless of what you use the key is that it must be on the leaf surface when the deer bends over to take a whiff.</p>
<p>Ralph aka Mr PGC</p>
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		<title>Comment on Origin of Hosta Species by mrpgc</title>
		<link>http://blog.plantsgalore.com/?p=319#comment-314174</link>
		<dc:creator>mrpgc</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Sep 2014 22:35:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.plantsgalore.com/?p=319#comment-314174</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Jo,

Sorry for the extreme delay in responding to your question. I had to suspend my blogging efforts for a while due to other demands on my time.

Anyway, a plant explorer named Sprengel back in 1817 named the plant Funkia in honor of a German botanist, Heinrich Christian Funck. I don&#039;t know exactly when but someone later determined that, at an earlier date, the plant had been named for an Austrian botanist named Host. As in all situations when it comes to naming a plant, the earliest name that can be documented is it. So, we are now Hostaholics instead of Funkiadelics.

Thanks for your question.
Ralph Heiden
aka Mr PGC]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Jo,</p>
<p>Sorry for the extreme delay in responding to your question. I had to suspend my blogging efforts for a while due to other demands on my time.</p>
<p>Anyway, a plant explorer named Sprengel back in 1817 named the plant Funkia in honor of a German botanist, Heinrich Christian Funck. I don&#8217;t know exactly when but someone later determined that, at an earlier date, the plant had been named for an Austrian botanist named Host. As in all situations when it comes to naming a plant, the earliest name that can be documented is it. So, we are now Hostaholics instead of Funkiadelics.</p>
<p>Thanks for your question.<br />
Ralph Heiden<br />
aka Mr PGC</p>
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