From their perspective, they could not care less about us. Their goals are rather simple. They want food, water, protection from predators and a place to reproduce their own kind. If these requirements are met, they do not care whether it is in the woods or in your backyard. It makes no difference to them.

So, as the supposedly “superior” being in the mix, perhaps instead of getting upset, we can use our energy to find ways to outsmart these creatures. Maybe we can figure a way to deny them one or more of their requirements. In most cases, that is enough to remove the problem. Unfortunately, this requires some decisions on our part that are not always easy.

All living creatures need food. Many of the organisms that we call pests have very specific dietary needs. The fungus that causes apple scab will feed on apple, mountain ash and firethorn but would never survive on a maple or oak leaf. Elm leaf beetles eat…you guessed it, elm leaves. They would never be attracted to a pine tree. Deer devour tulip buds but avoid poisonous daffodils.

Fungi, raccoons, weeds, aphids, and beetles all need moisture. If their needs are met easily, they will multiply quickly. If they get dry, they must either move on or die.

If we use insecticides too liberally, we run the risk of killing predator insects such as lady bugs, preying mantis and certain wasps. When they are gone, aphids can go wild because they do not have to worry about getting eaten themselves. Even deer avoid enclosed areas or jumping over fences where they cannot see the other side because they still have at least a modicum of fear for their only real predator, humans.

Although they may not need candle light and soft mood music, even insects need certain conditions to exist before they will reproduce. Slugs need cool, moist surroundings in which to produce their young. Apple scab needs a nice, moist leaf upon which to produce its spores.

So, what are some of the options that we as gardeners can use to minimize the pest populations in our yards? First, reduce the food supply. Even deer do not eat everything. If you have a serious problem, you may be forced to change your gardening habits and concentrate on those plants that do not attract the pest. In the case of diseases, we call this resistance. Use plants that have been found to be resistant to diseases and you don’t have the problem.

For many of our common pests, the key may be to reduce the amount of moisture in our gardens. Sure, you have to keep it moist enough for the plants to thrive but many of us overdo a good thing. By better managing the water in our garden, we can affect both insect and disease problems.

Twins are more common in suburban areas.

Perhaps the best thing we can do is simply grow healthy plants. A healthy plant will not attract as many insects or diseases and, if they do become affected, they tend to bounce back better. So, keep your plants watered properly, fertilized to maintain a moderately vigorous growth rate and allow enough room for the plant to grow to its mature size without being encroached upon by its neighbors.

Although we often use the term “bug” as being synonymous with insect, “plant bugs” are a specific subdivision of the insect world. They are insects of the Order Hemiptera whose mouthparts are adapted for piercing plants and sucking their juices. Several of them are common pests in the home landscape.

The tarnished plant bug (Lygus lineolaris), Harlequin bug (Dindymus versicolour) and the four lined plant bug (Poecilocapus lineatus) commonly cause this type of damage. These critters have round mouth parts that attach to the surface of leaves, stems or buds while the insect sucks juices out. The bugs spittle is toxic to the plant so the injured area dies and turns black leaving a spot. After a large number of bites, the entire leaf may curl up and take on a malformed appearance often mistaken for a disease.

The tarnished plant bug is 1/4 inch long and green to brown in color. It is a very active bug and moves rapidly. The adults hibernate in leaf mold, tree bark or under mulch.

The four lined plant bug has been especially active this past summer. It is about a quarter of an inch long and is greenish yellow with four black lines on its back. The immature nymph form of the insect is reddish in color and appears usually about early June. It tends to feed on members of the mint family, herbs and several flowering plants including chrysanthemums, aster and even, occasionally, hostas.

It is often difficult to observe plant bugs at work and the damage just seems to “appear” which also lends to the belief that it is a disease. Plant bugs tend to be very shy. When they hear you approach, they will scurry away and hide lower in the foliage. If you stand over the plant quietly for a while and watch without moving, they may come back out onto the leaf surface and begin to feed again.

A very patient person with a lot of time on his or her hands can treat the bugs by spraying them individually with insecticidal soap. Remember that the soapy solution has to go directly onto the insect’s body and it is not good enough to just spray the foliage. Soaps work by melting the waxing coating on the external skeleton of the insect. When the wax is gone, the bug will dehydrate and die.

Other organic pesticides such as sabadilla dust or rotenone applied to the foliage can be effective. Also, of course, there are synthetic chemical insecticides that are also labeled for use against plant bug damage.  Of course, the final decision on your course of action is up to you. If the damage is not severe, you might just choose to live with the little creatures.

As always, if you have an questions, comments or requests for specific topics to be covered in a future, blog, please let us know.